Go, Do, Be.


Surfed, not rocked

By: Chris Greacen - 02/10/2008
I decided to surf this am instead of sit in my garage and write music. This was some long overdue activity that helped to clear my head even if it put me behind on my 29 song schedule.

The surf was decent! Winds were still offshore by the time I got to the beach (around 10am). There was swell! I think there were some 7+ foot sets coming in on the north end of the beach. I caught a few rides in front of the north parking lot then walked up toward those big waves around Crespi. My arms were out of shape after a surfless month, but I was eventually able to make it outside. Folks weren't really diving into those waves the way I expected. I think I could have done more with them, but I was distracted by a toy I had around my wrist.

I got a "Digital Hero" sports wrist camera for the holidays and took it out for the first time. I was able to snap some pics from the water, but didn't really shoot much surfing. I probably could have ridden some really nice (and really big) waves if I paid less attention to the doodad.

I'll upload some video another time. The camera captures some pretty trippy things during a wipeout.

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